Honda has a large amount of engines they use.
A list of the engines and their families can be found here:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Hon??
The newest engines used in their most common current line-up are the R and K series engines but what engine exactly is used can vary by country/region.
A lot….they have a few lines of engines with many variations of each D Series B series K series H series F series…and those are just the ones used since the late 80s
The K-series motors are chain driven. It’s in the new Civic and CRV.
Any K-series motor
Really, you can find these answers on this GREAT website.:)
http://automobiles.honda.com/
the most common in new hondas are the 1.8 2.0 and 2.4
I’m a poor student with $2000 and I need a car. I heard from a friend that my best option would probably be a Civic because they’re reliable. Do you think this is my best option to look into? I need a car with great fuel economy because I do an obscene amount of driving. And I need this car to last for a while, so I’m thinking I won’t buy a car with more than 100,000 miles on it already. The year doesn’t matter to me as long as it’s in good condition. Also, is this a cheap car to repair? Sorry for all the questions – I know nothing about cars. Do you think my standards can be met with $2000?
Yes you can but not one with less than 100,000 miles. My 2nd Honda is a manual 1995 Civic. I got it for $2,500 with 160,000 miles on the odometer. It now has 220,000 miles and is still running great.
They are cheap to repair and very reliable. They also get great MPG for their age.
don’t think you are going to find any car with under 100,000 miles in your price range
i have owned 7 hondas and 6 of them were under $2000 and they were all great cars
Check out craigslist
not a chance. honda civic for 2000? sure, I’ve bought two, both with way over 100000. With less than 100000 miles? Good luck. You won’t find anything with any less than 200,000 for that price. Probably nothing newer than 1993 or so. And chances are, you’re gonna have to put some time and a bit of change into it to get it into a good, reliable state.
If you look around hard enough, take your time, call people, talk them down, visit auctions, do whatever you have to do, you can probably find a reliable car for 2000, but not with 100,000 on it, and probably not a honda. Good luck.
Just yesterday my car wouldn’t start. Drove somewhere, came back and tried to start the car and it wouldn’t go. It’s not the battery, I replaced the starter, checked fuses, and no luck. Doesn’t turn over, no crank or anything. The dash lights turn on, radio, lights, etc…everything, but car doesn’t start. Anyone have this same issue?
I’m curious, why exactly is it not the battery?
Dash lights, radio, lights etc turning on does not always mean the battery is good. The starter takes much more amperage to turn the engine over than anything else in that car is going to need. If the battery is too weak then it’s not going to crank since the starter doesn’t have enough power to over-come the engine compression.
Most likely the alternator isn’t charging up the battery, should get it tested. Also try a jump-start, see if it doesn’t turn over/start with a better power supply.
Edit:
So no cranking what so ever, not even a peep? I know you said the starter was replaced but I’m still led back to the starter if the battery is good. Make sure all the connections on the new starter are securely in place and have a good contact, especially the grounds. If you can pull it back out, take it to a auto parts store and have them test it. It’s not uncommon to receive bad starters for these cars since they are all sold refurbished – I myself have received 2 faulty ones…on the same day.
Is this a manual or automatic btw?
Check the alternator
What does CRV stand for inHONDA CRV?
civic recreation vehicle
but you know how the ad for the crz says craze.so why not crave for the crv.
FIRST OF ALL THANX FOR LOOKING AT MY QUESTION I APRECIATE IT.SECOND IF YOU CAN HELP ME THANX YOU VERY MUCH. AND IF YOU CANT THANX ANYWAYS FOR LOOKING…….
I HAVE A 92 HONDA CIVIC EX WITH A VTEC 1.6 D16Z6 AND IT HAS A MANUAL TRANS.
IM AM LOOKING FOR DRIVERS THAT HAVE THE SAME CAR AND ENGINE WITH MANUAL TRANS TO LET ME KNOW AT WHAT SPEED OR RPM NUMBER DO THEY CHANGE GEARS.
IM TRYING TO LEARN HOW TO DRIVE MY CAR AND CHANGE THE SHIFT AT A GOOD TIME NOT TOO EARLY NEITHER TO LATE.
IF YOU HAVE A TACHOMETER WITH A LIGHT THAT LETS YOU KNOW WHEN TO CHANGE SHIFT AWSOME. PROBABLY YOU CAN HELP.
IF YOU ARE AN EXPERIENCE DRIVER THAT KNOWS THE RIGHT TIME TO CHANGE SHIFTS EXCELLENT. LET ME HEAR YOUR OPINION
PEOPLE READING THIS MIGHT LOOK LIKE ALOT BUT IM NOT ASKING FOR THE PERFECT NUMBERS JUST LET ME KNOW BETWEEN WHAT SPEED. EXAMPLE FOR 1ST GEAR (15-20MPH) OR (3-3.5RPM).
PRETEND YOU IN YOUR HONDA AT THE MOMENT. YOU PUT IT IN 1ST GEAR.
AT WHAT SPEED ORRPM NUMBER DO YOU CHANGE IT TO 2ND GEAR??
ONCE YOU CHANGED IT TO 2ND GEAR AT WHAT SPEED OR RPM NUMBER DO YOU CHANGE TO 3RD GEAR??
ONCE YOUR IN 3RD GEAR AT WHAT SPEED OR RPM NUMBER DO YOU CHANGE IT TO 4TH GEAR??
LAST ONCE IN 4TH GEARAT WHAT SPEED OR RPM NUMBER DO YOU CHANGE IT TO 5TH GEAR??
Everyone drives differently. When to shift is driver judgement based on current road/traffic conditions, there never has been nor will there ever be specific shift points.
For me, in every gear I shift mine anywhere from 2,500-4,000rpm. Like I said, there’s just no 1 specific shift point.
i always shift around 2500-3000 rpm for fuel mileage but for speed i would rev it on up towards the red zone or VTech zone
Just going by the numbers, it doesn’t make a lot of sense. Civic is like 600-700lbs lighter with a 4 cylinder, yet the Mustang posts better acceleration, better fuel economy, better handling AND it’s MAYBE only a few grand more. 0-60 in 5.1, 31mpg with an AUTOMATIC, and pulls .96G on the handling track…all for $23,000. Why would anyone buy an Si anymore? Looks like Honda needs to SERIOUSLY step up their game…now if only the Mustang had cylinder deactivation to get 34mpg like the turbo Sonata/Optima twins. It’d be the only car I’d ever own….
Reputation.
The big 3 have been struggling and everyone knows it. Sure it’s a Ford and it’s "American" built and it’s the legendary Mustang but when it comes to reputation and reliability Honda takes the cake and not only knocks Ford out but blows it away.
We all know about the economy issues, everyone want’s something cheap and reliable. The whole muscle car age is over, now is the age of Tree Hugging, best MPG, comfort, reliability and the vast majority of people buy their cars strictly for A to B driving. They don’t take into consideration who they can and can’t beat in a race. That’s why companies like Honda and Toyota are leaders in sales.
I’m not a Ford hater and a Honda OMG JDM RPM VTEC fan-boy, I buy a car because I like it. I had a ’99 Mustang and I LOVED that car. But it got old, it had 120k miles on it and was just constantly having problems so I sold it and bought a used Honda. That Honda is a 1995, has 220k miles on it, still gets 28-32mpg depending on how I drive and the worst problem I’ve had is a head gasket.
I’m sure as Ford proves they’ve gone up in reliability sales will start coming back even more in the future.
Ok well your comparing a family sedan upgraded slightly to a typical cheap sports car, the sports car is going to win. Although mileage is suprising, but that is besides the point.
Think about it, your comparing a honda to a mustang…. 2 of the cheapest new cars out there. If you want something nice get a nissan 370 or eclipse, which are halfway decent and smoke the mustang.
"Honda needs to SERIOUSLY step up their game…" ?? R u serious, there a brand of cars forr family, not racing rofl. Why do you think they have the best reliability as well as mileage on their cars?
Get the SI and a Mustang out on a racetrack, or even better an autocross track and see which one is really faster (although this has nothing to do with which is "better").I don’t think it will be the Mustang.
Magazine test numbers don’t mean that much in the real world.A higher G number on a skidpad for example does not mean a car handles better.
700 lbs savings is roughly worth 45 HP. Still not enough for the SI to keep up.
For those naysayers the new mustang has an all new suspension that is shocking the "handling" crowd. It is very well balanced. Put on a set of shocks and springs and you have a real aut0cross car. Also the engine is a step up because it has its roots in Mazda technology.
Now if they just got rid of that rear axle it would remove all last complaints.
The civic sold well because of its reliability and simplicity. Prices are higher because civics are one of the top sellers as compacts. If Honda wanted to rival the mustang then they would redesign the S2k not the civic.
Because it’s a front wheel drive economy car, where as the Mustang is a rear drive muscle car, well almost.It’s new v6 puts out more hp than most older GT’s..
4 cyl vs V6, and gear ratio also.
Look at a used audi s4 b6, youll smoke everyone you come across with a stock ride. 350hp awd
I think your looking at the wrong numbers, don’t think the V6 mustang does 0-60 in 5.1…the V8 maybe, its more like late 6′s to 7′s…(the 2005ish shape that is) so a Si is on par with that. simples
and a civic is far better engineered then a stang…ford need to step up their game…honda were using Double wishbone and fully independant rear suspension for example since the early 90′s, the 2006 stang still uses a live rear axel from the dark ages…and 210bhp from a 4.0 V6? thats appauling, honda nearly get that from a 2.0 4cyl. and the MPG is around 19 in town driving. So actually, it isn’t better atall…
I like american muscle, but new stangs are cheaply built rubbish
Drivers side seat belt is stuck in the disengaged position. Cant find any fuses. Just bought a Haynes repair manual and it has nothing about it. Is there a easy conversion to normal seat belts??
All Honda seat belts carry a lifetime warranty. Take it to a dealer and tell them to fix it for free.
Hi
you need to buy a new one as your safety is worth more than the cost of a new one.
Loosen the bolts holding the alternator in place. Do not remove them, just loosen.
The alternator will be able to pivot once the bolts are loose, simply just move the alternator to a spot that tightens the belt and if you can have a buddy hold it in place while you tighten the bolts back down. Don’t over-tighten the belt, it does need some play. Over-tightening can damage pulley’s.