Only difference would be your car being obnoxiously loud
You would probably feel a slight loss of power due to the absence of backpressure.
Only difference would be your car being obnoxiously loud
You would probably feel a slight loss of power due to the absence of backpressure.
It’s black sedan with 57000 and has leather si seats for 14000 and I already checked kkb and I would like someone who actually know and thank you
Take it to a mechanic that you trust to get it checked out. I have taken in several different cars that I bought, one certified pre-owned, and one also practically new 2007 to a mechanic to get them checked out. Most of the time the mechanic will charge a small fee, mine charged $50, and spend at least an hour looking them over. The mechanic I go to has a little hole in the wall 3 bay shop, and I have looked at all my cars with him and saw the underside of the cars myself and asked questions too. They should put it up on a rack check the frame, exhaust, under the engine, tranny, take off a tire or two and check the brakes. Sure you can look under at the lot, but it’s completely different to walk under the car and see everything close up.
Sounds good. Private sellers usually price them at 10k-15k while dealers will price them at 14k-19k. Just make sure you are informed about all tbs recalls and problems before jumping into it.
I want to fabricate a vehicle that was originally fwd and turn it into an awd daily driver… The candidate, a 95 Honca civic coupe, or sedan. Of course as my first attempt it would by no means be a work of art, mostly it would be a cheaper way of creating an interesting ride. The awd is to compromise between the boring safety of fwd and the exciting handling of most rear wheel drives.
I am looking for input on why this set up will not work.
Being in Canada I hate having to always worry about getting stuck in the snow whenever im not in a truck or suv. My solution is to mount a fwd engine+transmission assembly somewhere in between the front and rear axles; have custom drive shafts deliver the power that originally drove the front wheels to identical differentials in the front and rear wheels. The LSD on the stock trans-axle would ensure that when the front or rear wheels slip that power would be delivered consistently to both axis of propulsion. (In the front and rear differentials there could be their own LSD, or open, or even welded for the rear.) To be determined is the placement of the engine, whether in front or behind the driver, and as a result of that choice there will have to be a longer drive shaft at either the front or the rear of the engine to its respective differential. Cooling would be accomplished by using the stock equipment in the stock location with the addition of an electric water pump. Engine bay cooling would require ducting from the outside. Retaining the rear seats is almost certainly impossible. With the new drivetrain setup and weight distribution changed I hope to autocross it once suspension and power upgrades are implemented.
The list of what will have to be done begins with:
removing the engine
removing interior
removing gas tank
removing lines, plumbing, wiring,
install engine, and drivetrain conversions
re-fab for structural integrity.
re-wire, and re-plumb (coolant, and ac)
honda s2000 rear end conversion
honda s2000 differential flipped for front diff
very custom driveshafts (limited telescoping)
engine bay fabrication
It actually sounds very straight-forward to me.(think of all the storage space with the rear seat(s) removed and no engine up front)
Yes I know it belongs on Honda-Tech but meh. Il see what you people say first. Thank you for your time.
I hope you know how to weld because with that car you are going to have to know very well when applying an IRS rear suspension to a non IRS vehicle. You would be better off using the entire *** end of the S2000. But then you will have to fabricate all that is needed for the rear portion of the body and I can tell you right now thaat fitment is going to be a major challenge.
If you insist on making a RWD Dog out of a transaxle car, I would use a 90′s TOYT Celica. The wheel base and vehicle width have much better dimensions as well as accomodation of a tunnel area to be made for the drive shaft. A supra rear end (which actuall hook great since they too are strut based. You could do it with a Honda but you had better box up the frame for needed support or else if it’s painted brown with white spots it will rather quickly resemble something that looks like a pretzel.
Go with Honda CB Twister. The new motorcycle Honda CB Twister’s has a 110cc engine. The bike’s engine is expected to develop 9 Nm of maximum torque at 6000 rpm and will produce 9 bhp of maximum power at 8000 rpm. With 110cc engine, the latest launched bike in India Honda CB Twister expects to deliver a mileage of 70 km/litr.
As right now the discount on Honda Jazz 1.2 is 1.75 Lakh INR, will this be available for the new production or Honda is going to stop 1.2 production and launch 1.5 Jazz.
As I am planning to buy a car this festival season, and I am keen to buy Honda Jazz 1.2 on the new rates.
dont buy jazz any time the company can stop the production
bcoz its sale is nearly 20-30% in india..
go for new swift loaded with all new features,,
It Mileage : Approx 60 km/PL.
When I put the shifter into "1" it has plenty of power, when put in "2" it acts normal; however, when I put it into "D3" the car slowly accelerates and acts like it has no power. When I shift it to "D4" it acts like its in Neutral, and the light on the dash doesn’t even show it in "D4" like the others.
Anyone have any ideas?
Just got the car about a month ago and no problems at all then today it starting having the problem.
Best thing to do is just take it in. There’s probably a fault in the PRNDL switch or a problem with the fluid pressures in the transmission. But before you take it in pop the hood and pull out the transmission dipstick, if the fluid is low add only enough to bring the level up between the 2 marks on the dipstick and see if that doesn’t help. Use the Honda ATF only.
If the fluid looked black or a real muddy color then odds are that transmission is shot.
Ive recently bought a 98 civic ex 2door coupe that needs a transmission and some body work. Its an automatic. I know sawps are a common thing done to these cars. Im new to "import" cars and have a few questions. I’d like to know what years of hondas would be mechaniclly interchangabel. And ive heard i would need a certain auto trans and not any civic auto trans would work on my motor. Any thoughts?
Also would a hatchback or 4 door (civics) front end fit on a 2 door coupe? or are the fenders and hood too short?
How can i know what kind of motor i got. I know its a 1.6l but where do i look and know?
thanks!
Most pick and pull junk yards have interchanges they can print out for you.
Try some forums too. Googled ya one. Thats your best bet.
i have a d16a6 crx si,,can i use all the parts off a turbod b18b?
Yes , do that.I’d install them together with what you already have and be careful not to apply more power than your engine can handle or it will short circut. -Drag racer for 20 years.
I broke a wheel stud so I’m replacing all the studs with extended ones and new lugs nuts. I know how to take everthing off except the hub to pound the old wheel studs out. Anything will help! Thanks!:)
if you heat those puppies up, they come out easier! don’t be shy. use a big persuader.
Front Wheel Hub, Knuckle and Spindle
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi??
scroll down to "88-"95 vehicles.
it’s a free online only manual that covers your vehicle. to nav from that pg, you have to sign up, plug in vehicle info, and go to "repair info".
GO TO THIS PAGE IT WILL HELP YOU….SOURCE.